Assignment #4

Malioboro and Its “Vacations”

Malioboro is about 1 km street which is considered as the most famous street in Yogyakarta. Why did I call it “famous”? Because Malioboro is not only ordinary street, but also a shopping center, one of recreation destination as well in this city. It is suitable for shopaholic or ethnic lovers. Another well known place near it is Beringharjo market. Beringharjo market is the largest traditional market in Yogyakarta. In Beringharjo, we can buy batik and souvenirs.  In order to get good price, we should be a good bargainer too. We can go around by walking, riding bicycle, pedicab, andong or motorcycle.

Yogyakarta is identical with Malioboro. Every person who took time to Yogyakarta would have to come to Malioboro. Until this time, that place still survives with heart as the trade center and becomes one of the icon representing Yogyakarta. There are two history versions of Malioboro’s naming. The first version is taken from the name of an English gentleman, namely Marlborough, a resident of the United Kingdom in the city of Yogyakarta in 1811 AD to 1816 AD. The second version, Malioboro is taken from Sanskrit which means "bouquet", since this place used to be filled with a bouquet of flowers when the Palace held celebration.

The curiosity about Malioboro history made ​​us ended up to ask directly the one person who has long worked in that place, namely Mr. Siswo, 66 years old, a cabman who is devoted himself on Malioboro since the 70's in Sultan Hamengkubuwono X (HB X) period. He told us slightly about its story while sitting on his andong remembering the old Malioboro. He said that ago, andong can only park in front of Beringharjo Market, so the street in front of it had become overcrowded, although no sidewalks and no many street vendors around. The road was used only for pedestrians. Since most vehicles are still dominated by pedicab and andong, he admitted that it is easier to earn money. Regarding the arrangement of the city, there were no attics, not too many hotels, and still many large trees on the roadside as preventing from air pollution. However, one-way street was already prevailed, and wider. In contrast to Malioboro now, there are already sidewalks, so andong and pedicab are allowed to park around it. Another good things, andong and pedicab are under the supervision of Sultan HB X, including licensing in putting attributes on it, or the provision of uniforms of those who want to promote the certain products. It aims to maintain the public order and also security. This order makes Sultan HB X easy to control and invite the cabman to participate in the palace celebrations. The city ordering around the street depends on Mayor who served at that time, for example: previous Mayor Want to put plant pots along the way, but the mayor now want sidewalk planted with grass, so no more plant pots, to make better view. Mostly large trees also have been cut down for safety. There are a lot of street vendors who sell batiks or souvenirs. Life goes on, and the seasons kept changing. Now Mr. Siswo considers his work not only as a way to earn money, but also as an entertainment, remembering increasing of the number of competitors such as Trans Jogja bus, taxi, etc., although he admitted that it is difficult to earn money as a cabman today.

Yogyakarta has many essential places to show its identity. One of the famous places is Pasar Kembang, known as Sarkem. People said it’s an interesting place for men who are exhausted which is located in the heart of city. Now, Sosrowijayan has changed. Either it’s a matter of system or they way the prostitutes behave and dress up. For private reason, they are only given the HIV/AIDS vaccination twice a month. Skill building was even completely removed from agenda on 2010 so some of them were taken and the rest were stayed. Slow but sure, they are fully devoted themselves to be a prostitute and no longer rely on the attendant to earn money. So in short, they seek for men so the more visitors they served, the more money they got. This thing might lead them to dress up more vulgar, like wearing mini skirt and tank-top to attract.

Our interviewee is an old woman who has settled in Sarkem for almost 65 years. Her name is Mariyani, a widower who become the elder at Sosrowijayan Kulon RT 17 RW 03. She has five children who are working as a tailor and hairdresser. Only one of them is jobless. When we asked about the history of why people called this place as Sarkem, she gave us a very clear explanation that it is no more than just a name of Street around Malioboro.

Back then, Sosrowijayan, which has three hundreds or something inhabitans, became a complex of kos-kosan as University of Proklamasi was established and inns for uptown-sellers, mostly from Bandung and Jakarta besides as the residence of the prostitutes or place for earn money. They themselves mainly come from Jepara, East Java and Cilacap so this place also gave a lodging for temporary staying and should register themselves to Bunga Seroja and will be announced to others on the meeting. They were raised to get education like others by the local citizens and build their skill in cooking and sewing, also were given regular vaccination every week to avoid HIV/AIDS. The way they dress up formerly like commoners –wearing a jeans or midi-skirt combine with shirt or blouse-. They went to school in the morning and go working at night until predawn. This prostitution is already exist since colonial period. The visitors came from Indochinese people and artists. When they want to, let’s call it, be ‘served’, they must ask attendant first so the prostitute just stayed at inns and waited for visitors. Around the 60’s, some of the prostitutes were moved to place around Kota Gede, but they return due to the Government’s plan to built Giwangan Station. The situation was uncontrolled and disorganized -so many drunken got into fight and mini nightclubs were opened nonstop-.

-Papertoy-